Different types of wool have different qualities making them suited or less suited for different uses and situations. Unlike plant fibers like cotton or synthetics like acryl, wool is a protein often viewed as requiring special care. However, caring for wool doesn't have to be hard. Below, this post will take you through a handful of tips sorted as "knowledge" or "wash and care" based on the book "Lettstelt - Rene klær med lite arbeid og miljøbelastning" [Easy Care - Clean clothes with little work and environmental impact] by Ingun Grimstad Klepp and Tone Skrårdal Tobiasson. The purpose of this post is to make some basic knowledge more accessible and mobile for people (Including myself). If you're interested in more information about washing and caring for different types of fibers, check out Lettstelt at the library, friend, or local store!
Table of content:
i. The common qualities of wools
ii. Wools for different purposes
iii. How to easily tend to wool clothes
iv. How to remove stains on wool
v. How to wash wool
KNOWLEDGE
These are the common qualities of all types of wool. These are the qualities that will make wool a purposeful choice based on what you want a garment to do for you. The main sources of wool fibers are sheep, goats (mohair), and bunnies (angora).
⇾ Stays clean for a long time
⇾ Reduces smell
⇾ Good resistance against dirt & stains
⇾ Insulating for warmth, even when it is wet
⇾ Temperature regulating
⇾ Can be soft or hard depending on the micron
⇾ Itchy or non-itchy
⇾ Naturally fire resistance
⇾ Flexible
⇾ Tendency to lint
⇾ Can last for a long time if taken properly care of
Different types of wool suit different purposes.
Soft and fine wool fibers
For example angora, merino, alpaca, or mohair.
⇾ Shrinks more easily than stronger wool types
⇾ Often treated with Superwash (a thin layer of plastic) to prevent shrinkage during wash. Superwash is not necessary in clothing that rarely is being washed, in crossbreed wool, or mixed with silk. Total Easy Care is the most intense Superwash treatment which makes a wool item endure the dryer.
⇾ Lightweight
⇾ Fragile due to short and thin fibers
⇾ Good for soft and fine clothes close to your skin, neck, or face. For example, underwear, thin wool sweaters, or scarves. When layered, soft and fine wools are usually the inner layer close to the skin.
⇾ Angora and alpaca may be irritating to the airways. Merino naturally lint little compared to the others
⇾ When used in knits, loosely knit or heavy pieces may sag. To countermeasure this, you can do a structured knit, lay flat to dry, and store off an hanger.
Strong and thicker fibers
For example sheep wool; strong wool or cross bred.
⇾ Often more weighted
⇾ Les fitted pieces to create air for thermal insulation
⇾ When layered, thicker wools are usually the middle layer
⇾ Good for thicker pieces further away from the body like thick sweaters, outdoor clothes like mittens and hats, and sturdy enough for socks that see a lot of harsh use. Wool is not windproof, so windproof jackets or mittens can be a good outer layer.
WASH & CARE of WOOL
When washing clothes, you tend to the weakest fiber in the fiber mix. If a garment contains any percentage of wool, it should be washed according to that.
How to easily tend for wool
✓ Stick to the washing label
✓ Keep dry to keep clean
✓ Only wash with washing detergents made for wool
✓ Don't use more washing detergent than recommended
✓ Air out after use and "beat" it to get out dust
✓ Brush off the dust and crumbly spots
✓ Store folded in non-synthetic bags
✓ Get a lint remover tool for the lint
✓ Store in a newly cleaned and dry place, for example, wrapped in newspaper to counteract pests that like to munch on wool. If they appear, vacuum and dust all textiles throughout, wash garments at 60 degrees Celsius, or freeze at -25 degrees for at least four days depending on the pest.
✿ Look for detergents marked by the Swan Label or EU Ecolabel if that's in your interest
How to remove basic stains on wool
⇾ Sugar and salt-based stains and starches are soluble in water.
⇾ Fats and oils require warm water and washing detergents\soaps. Scrape off what you can (if applicable), and put directly under the water tap with the stained side down. Use stain remover if needed.
⇾ Proteins like blood or eggs require cold water. Warm water will only set the stain. Scrape off what you can (if applicable), and put directly under the water tap with the stained side down and rinse through. Use stain remover before rinsing if needed. Only get the part of the item that is stained wet to prevent the possible negative effects of stain removers and washing on fibers and color.
⇾ Pigmented stains likely need to be "bleached" gone. On wool, you can try to use lemon soap since bleach is not compatible with wool. It can irreversibly change color and "eats" the wool fibers.
⇾ Wet spills should be treated fast and try to be absorbed with a different material like toilet paper or salt to avoid an unnecessary expansive stain.
⇾ Sweat stains from wool are most effectively aired out, but also wash if it doesn't work
How to wash wool
✓ Always use wool detergents
✓ If you don't have it, use hair shampoo
✓ Always use the wool-washing program on your washing machine
✓ Don't fill up the machine with clothes. Leave some extra space
✓ End with fast centrifugation
✓ Stretch and pull after centrifugation to keep the size
✗ Leave wool to soak in water
✗ Dry in the sun
✗ Tumble dry
Reference list
"Lettstelt" (2019) and "Lettkledd" (2020) by Ingun Grimstad Klepp and Tone Skårdal Tobiasson.
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